One of the advantages of reading cookbooks like novels (I’m sure you have heard of many foodies using this phrase) is having a repository of recipes stored in the memory for those many moments when I find myself holding an ingredient and wondering how I can cook it.
The other day, whilst I was browsing the different sausages on offer at the supermarket, I saw a Lyonnaise sausage which promptly reminded me of a recipe from A Kitchen in France by Mimi Thorisson where she makes a Lyonnaise Sausage Roll. This is essentially a large sausage baked in a savoury brioche loaf. As an Australian, I find it hard to ignore any form of sausage roll, even if nothing comes close to those which you can find Down Under. But I have even come to love the Swiss Wienerli im Teig, a Wiener sausage simply wrapped in buttery puff pastry.
Aussie-style sausage rolls feature regularly in our home, but as our children are half-French, I try my best to cook a lot of French food as a way for them to connect with the paternal side of their heritage. It’s also a good excuse for me to practise cooking one of my favourite cuisines.
So the Lyonnaise sausage found its way into my shopping basket which I set about preparing a few days later. However, in spite of my best efforts to be organised before embarking on this recipe, panic set in when I realised mid-recipe that I had purchased the wrong sausage. Instead of buying the required saucisson de Lyon (an uncooked Lyonnaise sausage), I had instead bought a sauccise de Lyon (a cooked Lyonnaise sausage). French is clearly not my forte. I blame my husband for my poor French (and the fact that I have devoted the last 10 years to learning German).
So the brioche dough was still proving in the kitchen, and although I had intended to use the afternoon to take my daughter to the playground for some much needed toddler-energy-burn-off, I figured that it was also in her best interest that I produce an edible and complete meal that evening. So her playground that afternoon was the gourmet food hall downtown which stocks a wide variety of sausages (it being a Swiss delicacy), but the elusive saucisson de Lyon was nowhere to be found.
Thankfully, a kind (Swiss) butcher recommended that I could use a (Swiss) saucisson vaudoise as a substitute, especially since it requires the same cooking preparation as a saucisson de Lyon, and also because it is used by the Swiss-French in their own version of a sausage roll.
So perhaps I should rename this recipe to Vaudoise Sausage Roll, but I think you could use any good-quality pork sausage for this dish. Ideally, the sausage should be about 20 cm (8 inches) long and 5 cm (2 inches) thick, so that there is a good sausage-to-bread ratio.
If you are in the habit of making bread and brioche at home, this recipe is quite a doddle to make. And like most homemade breads, there will be lots of oohs and aahs as you bring it to the table. Sausages always go well with a potato salad, so I served it with our usual warm potato and cornichon salad. I can’t wait to experiment with other sausages in this recipe.
- 240g (2 cups) plain flour
- 2 teaspoons easy-blend yeast (see Cook's Notes below)
- 1½ tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon warm water
- 3 eggs
- 100g (7 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 large good-quality pork sausage (such as a saucisson de Lyon or saucisson vaudoise), 20 cm (8 inches) long and 5 cm (2 inches) thick
- 1 egg for eggwash
- Place the flour, easy-blend yeast and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough-hook attachment.
- Mix the ingredients together and then add the warm water, 3 eggs and butter.
- Knead the dough on medium speed for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is soft and elastic, but still slightly sticky. The dough should come away from the sides of the bowl and easily form into a ball.
- Butter a large bowl, place the dough inside, and cover with a clean teatowel. Place the bowl in a warm place for 1-2 hours until it has doubled in size. (I like to prove dough in the oven at 50°C/120°F).
- Meanwhile, cook the sausage according to the packet instructions. For a saucisson vaudoise, you will need to cook it in a large pot of water at 75°C for 45-60 minutes. Remove the sausage from the water. When it is cool enough to handle, remove the casing from the sausage.
- Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
- Generously butter a 24x9cm (9x4 inch) loaf tin.
- Punch the air out of the dough in the bowl.
- On a lightly floured surface, gently knead the dough a few times and roll it into a rectangle measuring approximately 25cm (10 inches) long, 18cm (7 inches) wide, and 1cm (1/2 inch) thick.
- Place the sausage down the centre of the dough and fold the dough over to wrap the sausage. Tuck in the ends.
- Place the sausage roll, seam-side down, in the loaf tin. Brush with eggwash.
- Bake for 25-35 minutes, or until it has risen and is lightly golden.
- Leave the sausage roll to cool in the tin for about 10 minutes before removing it to a serving dish to serve warm.
Most bread and brioche recipes require two stages of proving; the first stage takes place after you have prepared the dough, and the second stage takes place once you have placed the dough into the prepared tin and just before baking. This recipe only calls for the initial phase of proving, which might explain why my brioche did not rise as much as it normally would. Interestingly, the modified recipe for Lyonnaise Sausage Roll on Mimi Thorisson’s blog includes a second stage of proving. Next time, I will let the dough rise a second time for about 30 minutes to compare the results. But if anyone else has tried this recipe, I would love to hear from you!
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If you have tried this recipe, I would love to hear how it turned out! Please leave a comment below and share your photos on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter using #eatlittlebird